AINIA and the Science Park of the Miguel Hernández University (PCUMH) have celebrated the 4th Cosmetic Innovation Forum, A meeting where more than 150 professionals analyzed how biotechnology, neurocosmetics, and the circular economy are transforming the sector's strategies. The event addressed the industry's technological responses to a growing market, characterized by consumers demanding effective, safe, sustainable products with greater scientific backing.
The forum has brought together leading companies, technology centers and research institutes in cosmetics, and has focused on technological solutions with market potential to transform the development of new products from science and the circular economy.
In the field of neurocosmetics, which focuses on the relationship between the skin and the nervous system, the forum presented new methodologies for rigorously validating brands' claims or marketing messages. In this technical section, Cristina Codes and Marc Segarra, researchers at AINIAThey have presented some results from the Neurocosmetics project, based on a three-pronged approach: the in vitro cell studyto understand the biological mechanisms; neurophysiological analysisto measure the body's reactions; and consumer tests, to evaluate the final perception of the product.
Experts have explained that the relationship between the skin and the brain is bidirectional and can be measured using scientific tools. As an example, they presented a study in which fragrances, such as mint or lavender, can modify consumers' perception of well-being or alertness.
Likewise, Melisa Ortiz, Marketing & Business Development at Antalgenics, has addressed the involvement of cutaneous nociceptors in various skin conditions. For its part, Lucía Pérez, Researcher at IDiBE UMH, has presented a bioprinted innervated skin model designed to evaluate sensoriality in cosmetic development.
Lucía Pérez has furthered the development of this integrated three-dimensional model, which combines 3D bioprinting techniques with microfluidic systems to facilitate interaction between human sensory neurons and an advanced model of mature skin. This platform allows for the recreation of the skin's nervous system and opens new avenues for studying conditions such as rosacea and pruritus. It can also contribute to the personalized and non-invasive evaluation of the safety, efficacy, and potential allergic reactions to new cosmetic compounds.
Circular packaging solutions
Sustainability was another key focus of the event, with the presentation of industrial solutions geared towards the circular economy and applicable to the cosmetics sector. Among these was a successful closed-loop system for post-consumer packaging recycling, developed in collaboration with AINIA and Germaine de Capuccini.
Oscar Rico, Director of Quality Assurance and Sustainability at Germaine de CapucciniThis collaborative innovation project, which allows the company to recover packaging waste and reincorporate it into the manufacturing process, has been explained. The new packaging incorporates 15% material from this waste, while maintaining the safety, functionality, and quality requirements demanded of cosmetic packaging.
The initiative shows how collaboration between companies and technology centers allows for the validation of real circular models, in which waste is converted back into a resource within the sector itself, while maintaining the safety and quality guarantees of the cosmetic packaging.
For its part, Melissa Torres, Beauty Business School Director at Beauty Cluster, has presented data, trends and decisions that will shape the future of sustainable packaging in cosmetic packaging.
The evolution of the cosmetics industry also involves obtaining more efficient and sustainable ingredients. During the technical sessions, peptide-based innovations were analyzed by [names of participants]. Miquel Mulero (Rovira i Virgili University); The application of photophysics to design the topical sunscreens of the future, by Virginie Lhiaubet (ITQ UPV-CSIC); and the use of PDRN as a biological innovation linked to cell regeneration, a presentation given by Manuela Bermúdez, CSO of QUIMIVITA.
Furthermore, the debate surrounding the trend Blue & Green Beauty, moderated by Iván Borrego (IB Corporate Growth), has had the participation of Chema Lagarón (Bioinicia), Joaquim Jover (Jover), Ana Vázquez Santa-Cecilia (Ecoalf Beauty) y Guillermo del Barco (Mediterranean Algae), demonstrating that the reduction of the sector's environmental footprint already has viable proposals based on marine-derived ingredients, resource valorization, and processes aimed at reducing waste.
Innovation to respond to new market demands
The forum has shown that the sector is currently experiencing a period of profound dynamism and transformation. general director of AINIA, Christina Del CampoHe highlighted the sustained growth of a key market for the productive fabric, which requires moving towards models where "well-being, health, sustainability and digitalization are in tune with an increasingly informed consumer."
Javier Sancho, Director of the Entrepreneurship Area of PCUMHShe emphasized the role of the Cosmetic Innovation Forum in fostering knowledge exchange and connecting "the worlds of science, business, and innovative entrepreneurship." She also highlighted the Start-up Pitch Competition, which aims to "give visibility to cosmetic startups and encourage new synergies with established companies."
Along the same lines, the Regional Secretary for Industry, Trade and Consumer Affairs, Felipe Javier CarrascoFelipe Carrasco highlighted the "emerging and innovative" potential of the cosmetics sector, which triples the average R&D investment in the Valencian Community. "Collaboration between companies, universities, technology centers, and startups has made the Valencian Community one of the most competitive and dynamic hubs for cosmetic innovation in Spain," he added.
OrAIsi and Kemchain, winners at the Start-up Pitch Competition
The meeting concluded with the resolution of the Start-up Pitch CompetitionA space dedicated to showcasing the most disruptive proposals in the entrepreneurial ecosystem. The startup OrAIsi has been the winner in the Seed category. This platform RegTech, which automates the creation of cosmetic PIF files using artificial intelligence, has won the jury's recognition in a final where it also competed against Aloe Vitae, Dermatologic Store and IDZ – IngreDiZymes.
In Growth categoryThe award has gone to Kemchain, who shared the nomination with Helseffekt and Raz. This company has stood out in the competition thanks to the possibility it offers of transforming the document management of raw materials from suppliers into a simple, fast and efficient process.
The Seed category recognizes projects in early stages, while Growth is aimed at initiatives with a higher degree of business development.
